Christmas morning in Fez was wonderful, albeit strange. No stockings or tree and more notable, no extended family 😢 There was also a concern that Santa may not find us here in Africa! Chris made a wonderful breakfast of fresh fruit, fresh bread and fresh squeezed juice and we displayed a picture of the Arnold’s Christmas tree on our phones and opened gifts..,almost like being at home! (Gifts were actually wrapped pieces of paper that had pictures of items waiting back home; much easier to pack!)
We spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find and then ascertain Mass time at the only Catholic Church in Fez. We missed the service and the kids were actually relieved. Although upset at missing Christmas Mass for the first time ever, they admitted to being worried about going to Mass in a Muslim country. “Mom, Christians are being persecuted all over the world!” Fortunately we will be in a 98% Catholic country soon and can go to daily Mass!
We headed out to Chefchaouen, the “Blue City” after breakfast. Our original plan was to hit the Akchour Waterfall and hike. Sadly even the short trek is over 2 hours and Annie’s boot is just not conducive to hiking. We then decided to stop at Volubilis and Meknès on our way north. We stopped in Meknès and had a great lunch before touring the old prison where they used to keep over 10,000 people imprisoned. Creepy but very cool. Annie has not been feeling great (she caught Chris’ cough and cold) so we skipped Volubilis. Those that know Annie well will be stunned by this! The kids could not believe we were passing up an opportunity to look at “important rocks!” (Volubilis is the most significant Roman ruins in Northern Africa!)
We got back on the road and a dozen police checkpoints later (seriously) we arrived in Chefchaouen. We have felt very safe throughout this trip. There is a very visible police presence everywhere. We have to believe it is preventative in nature. Pretty much everywhere we have gone there will be random police roadblocks every 20 miles or so. We have been waved through every time but once. They simply ask for ID, look at occupants and let you pass.
Chefchaouen is up north in the Rif Mountains. It is the primary growing region for cannabis. We had an educational discussion about the difference between marijuana and hashish; despite what we had read, we were offered hashhish only once!
The entire town is painted blue and there is debate as to why. The leading theory is that it was a brilliant marketing ploy thought up 40 years ago! Whatever the reason, the town is now a destination despite few culturally redeeming features. It is very pretty and has a cool vibe. Just a fun place to wander around.









